The moment I stepped off the ferry at Poto Tano, Sumbawa hit me like an untamed breeze. The air smelled of salt and dry earth, and the sun was already blazing down on a stretch of coastline that looked like it hadn’t changed in centuries. I still taste the salty breeze while I pen down this Sumbawa travel guide.

To my left, jade-green hills rolled lazily into the distance, while the water ahead shimmered like a giant blue-green mirror. It wasn’t loud or crowded like Bali; just raw, quiet, and real. 

Sumbawa’s this massive island in Indonesia’s West Nusa Tenggara, bigger than Bali and Lombok put together, but it’s got this mysterious vibe that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled onto an unknown island. 

I’d heard whispers about its waves and reefs, but standing there, I knew this place was more than just a surfer’s land; definitely it’s a whole adventure waiting to happen.

 Mount Tambora

Sumbawa’s got this mix of wild nature and chill spots that kept me hooked to its memories. First up, Mount Tambora. I’d read about its monster eruption in 1815, biggest in recorded history, they say, tossing out enough ash to mess with the world’s weather.

Hiking it was no joke; it took me two sweaty days with a guide, but reaching the top felt like standing on the edge of a giant’s soup bowl. The crater’s this massive, gaping hole, and on a clear day, you can see forever.

Moyo Island

Then there’s Moyo Island, a quick boat ride from Sumbawa Besar. I hopped on a fisherman’s boat from Ai Bari village which costed me about 50,000 rupiah and landed in this quiet paradise. 

The Mata Jitu Waterfall was my favorite; it’s tucked in the jungle with cool, blue pools perfect for a dip. I saw deer darting through the trees and heard bats chittering overhead.

Whale Shark Diving in Saleh Islands 

It’s 3 hours from Sumbawa Besar (fly from Bali) or a ferry from Lombok. My Sumbawa travel guide ranks it top among Sumbawa dive sites and whale shark dives, a must for my Sumbawa travel blog.  

Lakey Peak in Hu’u

For surf nuts like me, Lakey Peak in Hu’u was a dream. I caught a bus from Bima after flying in three bumpy hours but those waves? Worth it. The breaks here are famous, and even in July, it wasn’t packed. The vibe’s chill, with little beach bars serving cold Bintang.

Sumbawa Besar

Sumbawa Besar itself surprised me. The old Sultan’s Palace, Dalam Loka, is this wooden relic from the 1800s, built without nails. I wandered in for free, tipped the sleepy guard 20,000 rupiah, and poked around. It’s not fancy, but the history’s cool. Sumbawa’s got this quiet Muslim culture with old traditions still kicking. 

Jereweh Waterfall

Oh, and Jereweh Waterfall near Taliwang? It’s this hidden spot with water tumbling over rocks, surrounded by huge trees with roots like tentacles. I went in the late afternoon when it was quiet for a lazy swim. 

Sumbawa Besar 

Picking a spot to crash in Sumbawa depends on what you’re after. Sumbawa Besar is great if you want a base with decent food and easy access to Moyo. It’s the west’s biggest town, safe and chill, with a small-town feel.

Hu’u near Lakey Peak

Hu’u near Lakey Peak is where surfers flock, with cheap guesthouses and a salty, sandy vibe.

Poto Tano

If you’re into diving or quiet beaches, Poto Tano has this peaceful port-town charm, close to the ferry and west coast waves.

Maluk

Maluk on the southwest coast is another solid pick. It’s near Supersuck and has chilled-out beaches, with a mix of local life and miner hangouts from the nearby gold mine.

Food in Sumbawa is simple but hits the spot. In Taliwang, I tried Ayam Taliwang a grilled chicken dish slathered in spicy chili sauce. It’s hot enough to make your eyes water, but so good I went back twice. Pair it with rice and a coconut to cool off.

Over in Maluk, I grabbed Ikan Bakar a fresh fish grilled right in front of me at a little warung (local eateries). You pick your catch, sip a drink, and 15 minutes later, you’re digging in. The smoky flavor with a squeeze of lime? Heaven.

In Sumbawa Besar, street stalls near the mosque had cheap eats like sate-skewered meat with peanut sauce which is to die for.

One night on Kenawa, locals cooked me fish over a fire which was salty, fresh, and messy in the best way.

Scoot around the villages

Sumbawa’s got some offbeat stuff to try. I rented a scooter in Sumbawa Besar, for about 50,000 rupiah a day and zipped around villages, dodging goats and waving at kids. It’s one of the best ways to feel the island’s pulse.

Dips and Dives in Sumbawa

On Moyo, I snorkeled at Tanjung Menangis, one of the top Sumbawa dive sites, and saw fish bobbing through corals. Divers, head to Sangeang Volcano. It’s an active underwater spot with wild sea life.

Buffalo Race in Sumbawa

I also caught a buffalo race near Sumbawa Besar and watched locals cheering as these massive beasts thundered past. It’s old-school Sumbawa, raw and loud like the setting you’d see in old movies of your grandparent’s time.

Flying into Sumbawa Besar or Bima is easy. You’ll find daily flights from Bali or Lombok, about 30-40 minutes. From Sumbawa Besar airport, I grabbed a taxi (100,000 rupiah) to town which was quite fast and comfy.

Bima’s a 15-minute ride to the port. Public buses run the main road from Taliwang to Sape for cheap at 20,000-50,000 rupiah but crowded and slow. I took one from Bima to Hu’u; it was packed, but the views were worth it. 

Ferries from Lombok to Poto Tano take two hours for about 50,000 rupiah and beat the pricier fast boats. Taxis or shuttles are smoother but cost more so book ahead if you can.

Renting a motorbike (50,000-100,000 rupiah/day) through your guesthouse is the cheapest, most flexible option. I hired a car with an experienced driver who knows every nook and cranny of Sumbawa because, why not?

Sumbawa’s this wild, quiet gold that sucked me in with its waves, reefs, and chill pace. From hiking Tambora to snorkeling Sumbawa dive sites like Tanjung Menangis, it’s got this raw edge you won’t find in crowded spots. 

My Sumbawa travel blog barely scratches the surface with every dusty road and fish grill left me grinning. Start planning your Sumbawa travel now; grab a flight, pack a bag, and swift into this island’s magic. Share this with your crew as it’s too good to keep it a secret.